Fabric Face Mask - Maker Craft Live!

Hey makers! If you haven't seen our second Maker Craft Live, you can check it out now at this link. In it, our technician Ronni shows you how to sew your very own protective face mask! This mask isn't 100% protection against viruses and disease, but it is a good tool to help limit the particles you breathe in, and also limit face touching. As long as you have a sewing machine and some scrap fabric at home, it can be very easy to make!

For this project, you'll need:

• A sewing machine, or needle and thread 
• Fabric (preferably non-stretch tightly-woven cotton, and flannel. You'll need at least two layers, but if you're using a looser-weave fabric, three or more is preferred. Just make sure you can breathe through it all!)
• A 4-inch posable wire (pipe cleaner, floral wire, jewelry wire, or armature wire all work)
• Elastic or ribbon (elastic will fit more tightly and not slip off - ribbon will sanitize better in the laundry)

The pattern piece for this project comes from CraftPassion, whose face mask pattern has been getting real popular lately. However, we're going to make a few alterations to this pattern, to make the final mask sit a bit more comfortably on our faces. Primarily, we're going to be adding in the nose-wire segment included in the JenniferMaker pattern (If you have a Cricut that can cut through fabric, JenniferMaker has an .svg file of the face mask pattern for Cricut cutters).

The first thing to do is cut out the pattern piece. If you're using the CraftPassion pattern, make sure to cut an additional quarter inch around the pattern piece itself, otherwise your mask may be too small.

You'll need at least four pieces - two for the exterior fabric, two for the pocket fabric, and two more for any additional layers you want to add. The exterior layer, as well as any extra layers you're adding, will be cut with an extra inch at the ear line. The pocket layer will be cut with only a quarter inch at the ear line.

Pair up your exterior fabric pieces so the right sides (the sides with the pattern showing) are together, and sew a curved line along the long side, as shown. This curved line is going to be the center of your mask, where you mouth and nose are.

Clip the excess fabric towards the seam, making sure not to cut into the seam itself. Doing this helps the curve lay smooth, instead of bunching up. Next, you're going to open your fabric up and lay it down flat, ironing the fabric to one side (it doesn't matter which side). This will be a bit tricky to do, but do it as best you can. When that's done, sew a top-stitch along that previous seam. This top-stitch will sew that excess fabric down onto the mask, so it doesn't bunch up and get in the way, as well as stabilize the shape of your mask.

Do the same for the rest of your pairs of pattern pieces. 

Find your pocket piece - the pattern piece you cut out that is shorter than the others. Take one of the ear sides, and fold it in towards the center about a quarter inch. This doesn't have to be a perfect fold, but you can measure it if you want, and feel free to iron it down so you don't lose the crease. Do this on both sides, folding in to the wrong side (the side you don't want showing in the end). Sew that down.

Now take your pocket piece and your exterior piece, and pin them with right sides together. Match up your original center seams, not the top-stitch seams you just made, and try to keep the top and bottom edges lined up as best you can. If you're including additional layers, pin those onto the smaller pocket piece, so the right side of the additional layer faces the wrong side of the pocket layer.

Sew all along the top and bottom edges, keeping both sides open.

Flip your mask right-side out, so the right sides of both the exterior and pocket layers show. You'll have to iron your mask again to help create its shape. Push all your seams out as best you can, and iron small sections at a time, so you don't end up ironing down a fold. If you want your mask to hold its shape better, sew another top-stitch, all the way across the top and bottom edges.

The next thing you'll need to do is add a channel for your nose wire. You can skip this step, if you don't want to include a nose wire, but the wire will help your mask sit closer to your nose, limiting the amount of unfiltered air you breathe in. Sew another line a quarter inch away from your top-stitch seam, starting from one cheek going to the other. Try to match the length of the wire you're using - you can measure, and mark this line in pencil, to get it right.

When you slip the wire in, make sure the ends are folded in, so the wire doesn't poke through your fabric and cause damage to your mask or your face.

The final step is to close up the sides and add your ribbon or elastic. Fold the excess fabric on the sides of your mask twice, so it sits against the opening of your pocket without covering it. There's two ways to sew this closed. The first is to sew a single line from top to bottom, close to the opening for the pocket without sewing the pocket closed. Doing this will create a channel for elastic or ribbon to slide through. The second method is to sew your elastic or ribbon directly on to the fold, so it comes straight out from beneath your mask. Use whichever method you prefer.

And with that, your mask is done!  There is an open pocket in the middle of your mask, where you can slip in a paper air filter, or any additional layers of fabric you want to help filter out air. Just a reminder, these masks are NOT guaranteed to protect you from all viruses and disease - but some protection is better that no protection, and they'll definitely stop you from accidentally touching your face until you can wash your hands.

If you have any questions, or want to show off any projects you've made, let the Creation Station know! We'll be posting regular updates on this blog and checking our social media feeds daily. We hope to see you all again soon!